Everest Base Camp Information
Here are my hints and experiences on the Everest Base Camp trek.
EBC is an excellent walk. I walked in and our from Jiri, and believe it makes good sense to at least walk in (rather than flying into Lukla), to help get acclimatized and fitter. Also the walk from jiri to the Kumbu is very interesting with different tribal areas in each valley. The walk to Base Camp/ Kala Patar is not in my terms very difficult, the only problem, which can be signficant, is the altitude, that can and does affect some people negatively. I walked 21 days, from Jiri - Kumbu - up to Mamche - up to the left valley to Cho Oyu Base Camp, across the Cho Lo La and on to Everest Base Camp and back out. I didn't have any problems. I walked in with a friend and out on my own. I suggest reading the section in 'Trekking in Nepal' by Stephen B. from the Mountaineers Club in Seatle.
These are emails I exchanged with someone in the US about EBC. I hope others find it useful.
Length of time:
Q: We can affort about total 3 weeks vacation, including travelling from US and back. Is it out of the question for us to walk from Jiri all the way to the Base Camp.
A> I think its possible, but you'd have to be quick and probably fly out of Lukla, or walk out very quickly if the weather stops flights. Better to try and have a few more days.
Gear & porters:
Q: What gear did you carry? Did you hire a porter?
A> I just carried a medium size pack with sleeping bag and& mat, clothes, water, cameras, and a little food. You can hire a porter if you want, I didn't! Hey, you can hire me if you want!
Huts:
Q: Is it easy to find huts? Are huts almost all over the place?
A> Yes, at least on the main treks to Annapurna and Everest areas there are plenty. Don't arrive late at the day in the higher areas during the main season (Oct/Nov/early Dec) as they can get quite full.
Permits:
Q: Is it complicated to get permission to hike there?
A> No, it is easy for trekking permits to Everest and Annapurna. You just go to the office in Kathmandu and queue for hours. Do it as soon as you can when you arrive (in case it is going to be closed for holidays as it sometimes is) and arrive early early early to avoid missing out for that day. They really shut the doors at closing time. One time we managed to do it reasonably quickly the other time it took 1/2 day or so.
Water:
Q : What is the situation of water supply? Did you take a water filter?
A> I took a water filter and tablets, but still I got sick. I suggest reading some information on that, the Mountainers Club in Seattle do a great book on mountain medicine. A good idea if you can organize it is to grab some of the water boiled in the hut for your bottles, but that is not always possible or enough.
Q: Where did you get water from? From streams? Where do local people get their water?
A: Yes, from streams, but I always filtered or treated it. However, you can buy bottled water and Coke and Fanta type drinks in most places.
Lunches:
Q : How about lunches? Did you buy them at the huts where you stayed?
A > Can do that but usually we either stopped at another hut on the way and bought something, or bought a few biscuits and whatever we could find which was enough.
Weather:
Q : What was the weather like when you were there (EBC Nov/Dec 1993)?
A > Mostly brilliant, but it is quite variable. A year after I was last there there were severe snow storms and several people were unlucky and died.
Altitude:
Q : Did you or your friend have some trouble with altitude?
A> Neither of us really have any trouble, but you certainly notice the effects: slow and confused thinking, not sleeping properly, and not urinating as much as normal. Other people did have a lot of trouble when I was there and one had to be rushed down to a makeshift medical centre - she survived, some don't. There is no way of knowing, just take it easy on the way in. We didn't. We didn't even stay an extra night in Namche as most people do - but we were quite wary to take it easy when necessary. The effect of altitude on individuals is extremely variable. Again, I suggest the Medicine for Mountaineering book by the Mountaineers Club in Seattle.
Groups versus Independent:
Q: We are thinking about going in an organized group
A - I prefer to avoid organized things, but that's a personal thing. I do not believe its necessary unless you have a very short of time. The organizing doesn't take much, and is good fun and helps for future trips. If you want company you can hire a guide and/or porter in Kathmandu. For the Everest and Annapurna treks there are lots of people around to ask advice from about conditions, etc. I also offer guiding on such trips - please get in touch to find out more.
Everest Base Camp versus Annapurna Base Camp:
Q: What are your comments on the trip to Anapurna? Is the scenery there better than the trip to Everest Base Camp? Are these two trips very different?
A> Yes. I did Annapurna Base Camp, a relatively easier walk and much shorter. There is also the Annapurna circuit which is longer. They are different and Everest was much longer the way I did it: 3 weeks, and more varied and I guess as you see Everest more amazing. Annapurna base camp is a very good and straight forward walk if you want a good introduction to the Himalayas. Also, it is at a lower altitude so less altiutude problems are likely and it is easier to get down if something happens. It is certainly very beautiful and amazing.